In Roma and no Pope?

1st day in Roma and no Pope

Travel in Italy is so easy.  The trains are comfortable, fast, and reliable.  Our trip from Milan to Rome went by in a breeze.  Michael and I dropped our bags at our apartment at Campo De Fiori (more on that later.) and went to get some lunch.  Here in Rome, we were on our own.  No friends to guide us around or take us to locations.  We were fortunate enough that our friends including Meryl, who had lived in Rome for two years, gave us a list of places to have authentic Roman food.  Using Michael's iPhone we saw that Da Francesco was the closest one to us.  This place is a small and simple restaurant.  Which I loved right away.  No fancy tourist places for me!  They handed us the menu and I went right to the specials of the day. We saw they had puntarelle so that was a must.  We were also advised to have the Roman-Jewish Style artichokes.  These are simmered in olive oil until tender.  I was expecting more from them.  Michael's favorite dish from his childhood is Lasagna, he has told me many times about how wonderful his Aunt Lucy's Lasagna was.  So he was so happy to see it on the menu and in true Italian style they only had 1 left so I had to choose another dish. Our adorable waiter Tarquinio (what a name?!) recommended fettuccine with seasonal radicchio.  This was a surprise delight.  I would have never have thought of placing radicchio in pasta but it was really delicious.  Everything here at Da Francesco was delicious and full of flavor. This meal was enhanced by our local and artisanal beer.  We left happy and excited to continue our culinary adventure in Rome. 

After two days of passing by the Campo De Fiori and seeing the incredible colors and smelling wonderful aromas of the vegetables, we couldn't resist anymore.  We had to plan our own meal at the fantastic apartment that we were staying.  I love staying in a real apartment while I am in new cities.  I adore being able to shop and live like a local.  For our own 1st "home cooked" Roman meal, we did our take on Roman pasta while trying to honor the beautiful produce that we got. We decided on Tartuffo pasta with home made tomato sauce, Italian sauge, asparagus and zuquinni.

our goodies from Campo Di Fiori

Shopping for our goodies was so fun.  The friendly vendor helped us along the way.  He recommended to us the freshest and best ones for our idea.  It was like having a personal shopper but for food not designer clothes.  What a treat to feel like a Roman.  My 1st step was to start the sauce.  I cleaned and chopped the tomatoes. However I didn't peel them as most people do because I wanted us to experience the whole tomato.  With some olive oil, tomato paste and anchovies, I started cooking them in a pot.  In a separated skillet I browned the sausage without the casing. After the meat was ready I added it to the sauce.  I sauteed the veggies, boiled the pasta and then Tah-Dah....Dinner was made.  With some great Pizza Bianca from Forno Campo De Fiori and a bottle of Chianti it was a fantastic Roman Meal sitting in our apartment high over the Campo.  

Cooking, Pizza, & Dinner.

On a cold rainy day in Rome and feeling disappointed because the Vatican decided to close the Sistine Chapel TODAY to prepare for the Papal Conclave (whatever?!),  Michael and I headed to the elegant Da Fortunato to eat our feelings. This place is a tourist spot however, at lunch time it is not. It's filled with locals and especially business men in their perfectly tailored suits. We ordered fried zuquinni flowers for the two of us.  Michael ordered ossobucco with risotto and I chose gnocchi with a meat ragu.  This was a fair meal. Nice but not amazing.  It did do the trick to heal our broken hearts on a wet day. 

NEXT....More Rome and Florence....Mamma Mia!!!!

Arrivederci Bella Italia!

At The Roman Forum

Rome is a city unlike any other city.  It has it's own rhythm.  I would say "Rome dances to a different orchestration than the rest of the world."  After a couple of days here, we felt that we were getting a handle on this place.  By this time, Michael and I have become addicted to the cappuccinos at Sant Eustachio.  They were rich, bold and creamy all at the same time.  (may I have another, per favore?)  We also became accustomed to having an afternoon gelato.  I would try different favors and Michael would stick to his favorite, pistachio. Lastly, we couldn't wait for our "apperitvo" in the early evenings.  We especially liked their "spritz" which was Aperol, Percesco and club soda.  As we had eaten plenty of pasta and meat by this time, we decided to go to a seafood place for a lighter dinner.  We were recommended to try Osteria Der Belli.  It is located in Rome's hip neighborhood of Trastevere.

Osteria Der Belli

Honestly, I was dissatisfied with this restaurant. The service was mediocre. The presentation was flat.  I do confess that the flavors were good and robust.  However, as I am a Spaniard and specifically a "Madrileño", I am very spoiled with seafood.  Madrid receives some of the finest seafood from both the Atlantic and Mediterranean.

After 3 days in Rome, we couldn't get it out of our minds that the best meals we had were at Da Francesco and the meal we made at home.  Naturally, we choose to repeat them both. That morning we headed out to the Campo De Fiori to buy veggies and souvenirs.  We came back with Grappa, Lemoncello, spices, wine, salad, tomatoes, veal and the tiniest but sweetest strawberries you ever saw.  After our second trip to the Vatican and the most special because we got to stand in front of the tomb of Saint Peter. We headed to Da Francesco for lunch and found our friend "Tarquinio" smiling at our return.

Tarquinio and Me

I ordered some antipastos of purscutto and mozzarella (or as Michael's cousin's say Moo-tzerr-rell).  As the famous PBS travel guide Rick Steve's comments "Antipastos are a great and affordable way to fill your belly in Italy."  We both got pasta as our main dishes.  Michael got the famous "Fettucine all tartuffo bianco" which had a subtle but exquisite taste of white truffle.  As a Spaniard, I had eaten many "black" rice made with squid ink, so naturally I was curious to try some "black" pasta with cockles.  My pasta definitely brought to me many memories of Spain...different but similar.  I had to constantly fight off Michael's fork from my plate.  We both left thrilled to have another fulfilling and truly Roman meal.  We then headed on a wild goose chase through the tiny streets of Rome for the 116 bus.  At every turn another dead end but thankfully we found it and off to the Borghese Gardens we went.  We then came back for an evening at home munching on pizza, leftovers and our veal and salad.  The next morning we took the train to Florence.

The Umbrellas of Firenze

We only had one day in Florence and unfortunately it was rainy and cold.  We didn't have many suggestions of places to eat at here. The only sit down restaurant that we had was Cibréo.  After seeing Michelangelo's David, we went to find it.  It turned out to be a real find.  It was of the beaten track, the menu was not very big, but it was affordable with excellent quality food. We started with Minestra in Pane (basically Minestrone made with bread) and sfornato di ricotta e patate (a cheese flan with meat ragu).  Michael loved his "soup" but was surprised it was more like a spread and not soupy at all.  My ricotta felt like a play on deconstructed lasagna.  Our second plate was cod puree and a roast rabbit.  My cod with lentils really warmed my insides on such a wet day.  I was super surprised to learn that my cod had no cream at all.  It was all pureed cod and olive oil.  WOW!  Michael's rabbit was moist and crusty with a variety of herds.  It also had the most savory caramelized onions ever.  We finished with dessert of "cheesecake" (that is exactly as the server said it to us...cheese-y-cakeee (full on Italian accent) and bavarese al caffe.  I couldn't decide so our waiter brought out the chocolate cake too.  So very sweet.

Cibréo

We capped our stay in Italy with a delightful day at Lake Cuomo.  It was a perfect way to end our adventure in Italia.  Ciao Italia...until next time!

At Villa Pizzo in Lake Cuomo

Bongiorno Italia!!

After an 8 hour flight, a 45 minute train, and a 10 minute trolley ride, we arrived in Milan, Italy.  We were so lucky to have Italian friends waiting for us in Italy.  We quickly discovered that having Italian friends is a real blessing in this country.  Our first order of business was getting them to make us a reservation at Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia.  This restaurant is normally booked up for months but our friend was a friend of a friend of the sommelier.  And what do you know?  We were fortunate enough to get a spot on our 2nd night in Milan. Years ago, I studied at the French Culinary Institute.  One of my teachers there was the chef instructor of the School of Italian Studies. So who better to get recommendation from?  She told me that this place was the BEST meal she had ever had in Italy.  Well, she was right! Aimo e Nadia lived up to the hype.

I thought it was peculiar that my teacher emphasized that the restaurant was decorated in 80's style.  The warning didn't prepare me for the reality.  It was REALLY 80's!  The decor, the only 8 table, the glaring lights, the lack of music, and being that Michael and I were the only customers in the restaurant in the middle of nowhere Milan I was scared and skeptical.   Since this was our first time in Italy together, we moved forward with courage and order the full tasting menu.

We learned that the focus of the tasting menu was around this special salt from a lagoon in Sicily.  This salt played with the food.  It changed taste with each dish. We had a full education from Stefania (Aimo and Nadia's Daughter).  She entertained us with facts and stories of the food, where it came from and how it was grown.  She won our heart when Michael asked if the food was organic and with a smile she responded , "This is more than organic."

First Four Courses

The menu started lightly with bits of sweet fish, purees of chickpeas, and perfect vegetables.  After the 1st 4 courses...yes, 1st 4...then came the star of the evening, Etrurian Soup.  Stefania explained to us that this is a speciality here at Aimo.  Each element of the soup is cooked separately at low temperatures for hours in clay pots that are make specifically for them. This care and attention was not wasted, this soup was like eating love in a plate.  I never wanted it to end.

Etrurian Soup

After the warm and hearty soup, our only pasta dish arrived.  It was two raviolis stuff with ossobuco in a saffron sauce.  This was a great way to represent a country so famous for it's pasta.  It was a perfect balance. We continued on and 4 more delicious courses arrived...if you are counting that is 10 so far. They included veal from Piedmont, a selection of artisan cheeses, delicate citrus sorbets, and a play on tiramisu called "tirami-Sud." Then when we thought our dining experience was over the server placed a darling tray of petit fours for us.  These "cookies" were a surprise most especially the tiny madeleine with pineapple confit.  HEAVEN!

A Finish to a Wonderful Meal

A few evenings later we dined at a local spot called Barabba.  Our pal Giovanni, a native from Milano, brought us here.  As it was just a local hangout, we didn't have any expectations just something simple and casual.  We were surprised!  We were greeted by a charming woman that turned out to be the host and server.  She quickly suggested things to us and at her command out came a creamy burrata cheese, prosciutto di Parma, and this weird veg called puntarelle.  We fell in love with this puntarelle.  It is a form of chicory that is shaved and dressed in a anchovy, garlic and olive oil dressing. Our lovely, host/server/teacher of puntarelle told us that they were done making pasta for the evening when we arrived.  Sensing our disappointment she gave us a nod and a wink she made the kitchen re-open and out came plates of fresh spaghetti alla matriciana.  Then After our fresh pasta of pomodoro and pancetta out came Michael's favorite dessert of the trip.  It was called Fruttini di Amalfi.  They are fruits and nuts that have been scooped out and then re-stuffed with gelato of their corresponding flavor.  So the fig was stuffed with fig gelato and so on.  Michael was obsessed!

Barabba

Allora...una pausa!  

Stay tuned for our time in Rome and Florence.... Ciao, Ciao!

Aimo, Me, Stefania & Michael

The Road To Italy

I am back from a whirlwind trip to Italy and I wanted to share with you this wonderful, wild and wacky country.  Let me start before arriving in Italy.  A few weeks before our trip, Michael and I saw the documentary "Fat, Sick, and nearly dead." (you can watch it online.)  We both thought it was very inspirational and it made us want to try a vegetable juice cleanse.  Clearly, we were not going to try Joe Cross' drastic two months of only juice.  We decided on a mild three days right before our trip to Italy. What a better way to prepare ourselves for all that great food than giving our digestive system a bit of a rest. Off we went to Macy's to buy a brand new juicer.

Michael and I wanted this cleanse to be as healthy and as healing as possible to our bodies so we focused on using mostly organic greens.  We occasionally threw in some carrots, apples, berries but it was mostly spinach, kale, watercress, green beans, cucumbers, squash and lettuce. At times, we topped this drinks off with ginger, garlic, lemon or grapefruit.

The first day I got up made my juice and after I finished drinking it my first though was, "What should I eat now?!"  Although, the juice was tasty it was totally unsatisfying to me. That should have been the first flag for me. The day only got worst as I keep getting hungrier.  A horrible headache came over me and left me feeling down.   Meanwhile Michael was not doing much better.

The next morning my headache was gone a well as my hunger that was hurting me the night before. I was happy. The remainder of the fast was uneventful except that I was ALWAYS hungry...and I mean always!  However, we made it through.  Listen, as healing it was, I vowed never to do another "crazy" diet again.  But I am sure Michael will talk me in to another one soon.  Anyway...ITALY HERE WE COOOOOOOOOOOME!

Some Delicious Juicing Moments

Stay Tuned for Week One in Italy...